One of J. Paul Getty's numerous former residences. It offers a nice view of the Pacific Ocean and a 10-minute commute to Santa Monica. I took this shot during a 3-day timeout between storms that were pounding the southland.

It's all Ancient History at the Getty Villa

While most tourists to L.A.'s west side are familiar with the vast Getty Center complex off the 405 freeway, few have even heard of its less-publicized sister out in Malibu.  The "Getty Villa" does sound like a quaint affair, but it’s plenty big enough to fascinate the discerning trekker. All the moreso because this is where they keep ancient artifacts that date back to remote antiquity. According to the museum's website, this facility houses 44,000 Greek, Roman, and Etruscan objects.

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A view of the museum courtyard from one of the gallery doorways. At right, a very cool depiction of Leda and the Swan.

Like Getty in L.A., admission is free here.  Unlike L.A., you can’t just show up on the Villa doorstep and expect to have the run of the place.  Perhaps due its smaller size, the flow of visitors kept in check by having us schedule a date and time online at getty.edu.com. But when you print out your ticket, the sheet doubles as your map and directions, so it all kind of works out.  Parking runs a hefty $15, so do like me and hop on the MTA 534 in Santa Monica (or from downtown Malibu) and get off at Coastline Drive. (That's the intersection in the photo below.) The ride takes fifteen minutes from the Santa Monica Pier and costs $1.25. Then you’ll cross the street at the stoplight, walking south, and enter the wrought iron gate at the corner. Someone at the nearby security station will pop over and inspect your ticket. Then a minivan shuttle comes down to drive you up the hill.   This service is free, too.

The museum's walk-in gate is next to the umbrella. The address is 17985 Pacific Coast Highway, at the corner of Coastline Drive. (The car is heading south along PCH.) The drive-in entrance is 50 yards ahead of this car on the PCH, but you have to be headed northward to make the turn.

Even if you’re one of those people who regard history as "just one thing after another”, there’s other fun to be had at this hilltop sanctuary. After all, an oil tycoon once lived here, so it's an adventure just for that reason. Like the Getty Center, you can traipse around the garden grounds, eat a picnic lunch or otherwise luxuriate to your heart's content. While the acreage here comprises but a postage stamp by comparison to Getty, Sr., here you're perched on the edge of the North American continent.  It's worth the trip - trust me.

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After you ride an elevator up a couple floors from the entrance near the garage, you'll follow a path that takes you to the scene in the photo above left. There's an amphitheatre, although you can't see it there at the bottom of the stairs. The lobby of the museum is on the right in the same picture, at the bottom of those stairs. The photo above right is the view from the lobby looking out onto the central courtyard. All the ground floor galleries are nestled around that location. Very cozy setting. Not much walking involved.  And did I mention there’s a free coat and bag check? 

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These four photos were taken outside the west doors of the courtyard.

And then there's the fountain and long pool on the west side of the museum.  As you'd expect from the Getty, the esthetics are quintessential. Given the small space they’re working with, it's all the more of a feat.  The mix of greenery, statuary, surrounding edifice and blue sky combines to give this place a much warmer, fuzzier feeling than big brother off the 405. I saw a young woman sitting beside a trestle vine just off the fountain pool, reading a book in the sunlight. I didn’t need to disturb her with my camera, though, there were so many other prospects to choose from.

In fact, the Getty staff has thought of just about everything when it comes to running a museum.  Well, maybe they could post a sign at the entrance warning photographers not to use a flash indoors.  That would save the security guard in the first gallery a lot of grief. Other than that, I have no complaints, and that's highly unusual.

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The Getty Villa sits at the foot of the Santa Monica Mountains. The hall to the right is located at the entrance to the parking garage. This is also where the mini-van shuttle drops off and picks up to take you back down the hill.

As enjoyable as it was meandering around outdoors, I made the trip to see the artifacts inside, so let's get on with the show. 

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